The Best Laid Plans…

To quote the Scottish National Bard, Robert Burns, “The best laid plans o’ mice an’ men gang aft agley.” Well, mine went agley this morning.

I had booked with Viator for a one-day trip to an estancia 100 kilometres from Buenos Aires. I was really looking forward to seeing the gauchos at work and eating yet another traditional Argentina asado. They had told me they didn’t pick up at private residences, so I was to meet the group in the lobby of a hotel five minutes from here at 9.40 am. I had breakfast first, and arrived there around 9.20 am, in lots of time. Nobody showed up at 9.40 am, but that didn’t surprise me because this is Argentina and nobody expects to be on time. But there were four Australian guys who told me they were also waiting for the Santa Susanna tour.

Just before 10 am a guide came in and ushered the four Australians and me out to a mini bus. But five minutes later it turned out this was not my tour. They were going to the same place, but I was on a different tour. They took me back to the hotel, and the guide called her agency to let the Viator people know I was with them and on my way back.

Well, I don’t know where communication broke down, but when I got there five minutes later — my tour had left! I came back home and emailed Viator, giving them the play-by-play. I have asked to take the tour next Tuesday on the same booking, so I’m waiting to see what they say. It was quite expensive and they have a good reputation, so I’m hoping it will get sorted. Stay tuned.

Jardin Japones

Because I had planned a day off work, I didn’t feel like changing my mind and buckling down, so I decided to go to the Japanese Garden. I had been there before and was looking forward to doing some sketching. I got on the right bus, and I asked the driver to let me know when we arrived, which he assured me he would do — and then promptly forgot! Fortunately I had a vague idea where it was, so at one point I walked down to the front of the bus, and as soon as the driver saw me he said, “Oh, you missed the stop. You’ll have to walk back to the last stop.” Very cavalier about the whole thing he was. Apparently another plan was ganging agley.

Screen Shot 2016-02-18 at 7.49.25 PMAnyway, I walked back — and back, and back. Because of this, I came at the garden the long way and it was a very hot day, so by the time I got there I was reduced to a greasy spot. Anyway, after that the day got better. I had a lovely three hours in the garden, did one not-too-terrible sketch and had a nice lunch in the air-conditioned restaurant.

DateThis shot shows today’s date, so I guess they change it every day. Cool!

 

 

 

Luckoracle

Mine

This is Mine

In the gift shop, for 10 pesos I bought some luck from the Oracle of Good Fortune. It was an elaborate business, but I ended up with this scroll — apparently it’s all good! I went outside and tied it onto the wires, which apparently invests it with all the good luck from the other scrolls already there. Let’s hope my good luck begins with a trip to the estancia next Tuesday!

Screen Shot 2016-02-18 at 7.57.59 PMThis is a sketch I did yesterday of an old building near me. I got the outline and a bit of the detail done, but it was so hot I had to leave and go back again later in the day when it was cooler to finish it. Never had to do that before!

Roundup of the Past Few Days

I haven’t posted since I came back from Gualeguaychu, so this will be a bit of a roundup of what I’ve been doing over the past few days, complete with photos.

First, I had a couple of days feeling under the weather last Friday and part of Saturday. When I came home from breakfast I had intended to get a lot of work done, but my energy level was below zero and I couldn’t drag myself to my desk. All I wanted to do was sleep, my joints were aching and I felt yucky. Dire thoughts of zika or dengue were going through my head!

In the end though, it sorted itself out by midday Saturday, and I figured there were two reasons. First, although it has been hot since I arrived here, last week it was more than hot — it was oppressive. When you stepped out the door you felt the atmospheric pressure pushing down, and I think that was the first problem. But the other part was probably my own fault, as I realized I hadn’t been drinking enough water. (Plenty of wine, but I don’t think that counts.) So I started drinking much more water, the atmospheric pressure has lightened up considerably and I am back to normal.

Cucumber Sandwiches for Tea!

I think I mentioned before that there is a very posh hotel across the street from me. It’s called the Alvear Palace — quite old and considered among the very best hotels in Buenos Aires. And for some reason, they are well known for their afternoon teas! I had been promising myself that treat for a while, so decided to do it on Sunday. People had told me to go there hungry, so I didn’t have any lunch and planned to make this my dinner as well. It was certainly something to remember. Here are some photos.

IMG_2964Very olde worlde, full of charm. The room is called the Orangerie, and the glass ceiling gives it a lovely outdoors feeling.

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_2967Waiters and waitresses in old style uniforms (as they are in many of the restaurants here).  A pity there wasn’t a waitress in this shot, as they wore white gloves. Haven’t seen any of those in a while.

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_2966Lovely small sandwiches, and so many of them it wasn’t hard to fill up. I don’t know where they get their bread, because that’s something I’ve often found disappointing here, but there was a variety here and it was all good.

They did have lovely little scones with homemade jam, but — alas — no cream! For one brought up on authentic Devonshire cream teas, this was a big gap. But then again, when in Rome…

I had been told they excel with their desserts, and I thought this selection of small pieces was it. Wrong. See next picture!

 

IMG_2968I chose this feathery light choux pastry concoction because it was the smallest thing on the trolley and I was getting pretty full by that time. It was delicious though and I managed to eat it all — what a surprise!

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_2971There was no choice in tea, by the way. The one they served was some kind of blend of citrus and other types of black tea, and it was delicious. She kept coming to fill up my cup, and I’m usually a one-cup tea drinker. But again, it was so good I drank three cups!

This is a close-up of the silverware. They even had an elegant little silver container for the sugar substitute — how classy is that?

It was lovely, but the only thing missing for me was company. For the most part I don’t mind dining alone, but somehow here I needed someone to chat with. Frankly, despite the ambience and lovely food, I was a bit bored. But I’m going back next month with Cecilia, so that will fix that problem.

Dinner with New Friends

PabloCynthiaMeThere was no problem last night with a lack of dinner companions. A year or so ago at an InterNations event in Toronto, I met Diana. She was born in Argentina, although has lived many places, the most recent of which is Toronto. She introduced me electronically to her cousin, Pablo, and he and his wife, Cynthia, invited me to dinner last night.

Coincidentally, they chose a great Italian restaurant that is less than a five-minute walk from my place, so it was perfect. They are an interesting couple who run their own business online, so we had lots to talk about. We also shared stories and laughs about our lives, and all in all it was a lovely night. I am going to return their hospitality next month before I go back, and I will look forward to their company again.

And don’t they both contribute to this idea that all Porteños are good looking??

Couple of Sketches to Round Things Up

IMG_2963I haven’t sketched as much as I thought, because it has often just been too hot. (I know I’ve mentioned that to some people before, much to everyone’s annoyance!) But I’m determined to get some more done, so here are two I did in the last couple of days.

Avenida 9 de Julio is apparently the widest street in South America, and I wouldn’t doubt it. But it has a lovely treelined boulevard down the middle, and I found this beautiful little fountain at one of the intersections. The bonus was that I could sit in the shade of a big tree as I sketched.

 

 

Screen Shot 2016-02-16 at 1.10.30 PMThe lovely pink trees in the background are in full bloom right now. They are called ceibo and the blossom is the national flower of Argentina. Here’s a closeup I found online, although most of the ones I’ve seen are a lighter, more delicate shade than this.

 

 

cementarioI paid another visit to the famous Recoleta Cemetery, which is always fascinating. Here’s my sketch of one of the broad avenues that give the place the air of a little town — except everybody is dead!

Not many cities have a cemetery as a tourist attraction, but this one does. The rich and famous of Buenos Aires have been buried here for generations, including Eva Peron (Evita). Her family tomb is actually one of the less interesting looking ones, but of course it’s one of the most most visited and usually has a few floral tributes. By the way, contrary to most people’s perception and largely due to the movie, Evita is not universally adored here. Many still worship her memory, but many others don’t. The Peronista movement is, however, still alive and relatively well in Argentina.

I think that’s it for now. Please leave your comments so I know you are still interested in my adventures!

Now I’m off to meet with some expats and then have my tango lesson — always a highlight of my week!

 

 

 

 

A Few Updates

TreeThis amazing tree is a five-minute walk from me. I don’t know if I can convey its immense size in these photos but I thought I’d try. It is a gomero, or rubber tree, and it is 200 years old — I think the oldest tree in Buenos Aires. When I took the photos they were trimming some of the branches, so the ladder up against the trunk might give you some sense of proportion. I’ve seen photographers trying to photograph just the trunk, but it’s difficult because the branches put it into such heavy shade. Fantastic.

 

 

 

Yesterday, Donna and I went on a mission to buy tango shoes. We were in a very old section of the city that is full of tango history. There is a museum dedicated to Carlos Gardel, the acknowledged father of tango in Argentina.

tango girlWe found the shop, but both of us wanted shoes with a slightly lower heel. They had some, but those were boring compared to the brightly coloured, sexy ones with the four inch heels. I would last maybe five minutes in those, so I don’t think tango shoes are in my future.

Instead, I had my picture taken with this famous tango singer —  unfortunately I’ve forgotten her name. But note the interesting  grafitti in the background — that’s not something you see every day!

 

SketchFinally, just to let you know I’m still sketching, here’s another example of me pushing my limited perspective abilities!

 

 

 

 

No more posts for a few days, as we’re off to the carnival tomorrow! It’s in a place called Gualeguaychu, and although I had never heard of it, this is apparently the second biggest carnival in South America — after Rio of course. We get back next Tuesday, so I’ll report in again then. Ciao for now!

 

 

 

You Won’t Believe This!

You wouldn’t believe what happened to me today, so I have to tell you the story because it’s absolutely true.

I need to back up a couple of days when, before breakfast, I went to the ATM to get cash and left my debit card in the machine. OK, that part was my fault and I will definitely be more mindful in future. Anyway, I went back to the bank after breakfast, and lo and behold they had the card! It was under lock and key and I got it back with no trouble — I was so relieved I flung my arms round the woman’s neck to thank her!

The withdrawal limits are low here, so I have to go to the ATM every couple of days, and I did that before breakfast this morning. My card didn’t work.

I immediately assumed my PIN had been locked, so I came home and called my account manager at my bank in Toronto. She wasn’t there, so I left a detailed message telling her what happened. I asked if she could either reinstate the card, which I now had in my hand, or alternatively transfer money from my personal to my business account so that I could access it using my business debit card, because I don’t want to use my business money for my trip.

In the meantime, I went back to the bank machine with my business debit card. It didn’t work either! Now I was really concerned, and the knot in my stomach was growing by the minute. I tried my credit card — it didn’t work either! So then I was having dire thoughts about identity theft. I went into several banks in the area round my home, with no luck on any front. Panic was really setting in now, because all the cash I had was 180 pesos, which is less than $20, and no way to get more.

My rep emailed me back and told me to call telephone banking, which I did. I was on Skype to them for over half an hour, and the guy was super helpful and empathetic towards my situation. And he said there was absolutely no reason why my card shouldn’t work. My PIN had not been locked, I had plenty of funds in the account and I wasn’t asking for nearly my daily withdrawal limit. But he did link my accounts so that I could do the transfer myself online, which I did.

So… a few minutes ago I went back to my usual bank, put in the original personal card — the one that I had left behind — and it worked! So for good measure I withdrew money using my business debit card and my credit card — and they all worked!

I think the problem was nothing to do with me, and everything to do with the banking system here. This bit is just my speculation, but there was some sort of anti-government demonstration in the area this morning and I think the banks just shut up shop till it was over!

Anyway, all is well again in my world. But it’s been a rough day, and I had no appetite for lunch. So I’m now going out to my favourite parilla (steak house) to have a nice steak with a lovely glass of Malbec — I think I deserve it, don’t you?

Got My Hair Cut!

haircutI knew this would have to be done soon and I wasn’t looking forward to it. Most Argentine women wear their hair long and straight, so I wasn’t sure how well the hairdressers would work with short hair. My friend Susan grew her hair long when she moved to Ecuador for just this reason.

But this morning my hair was such a disaster I just walked into a local salon and took a chance. I think Oscar did a great job though — what do you think?

Busy busy busy!

Although I haven’t strayed very far from Buenos Aires over the past several days, it has been all go. Let me see if I can remember some of it, not necessarily in order.

On Saturday afternoon I went for a tango lesson with a small group from InterNations. It was in a wonderful little place called Apassionata Tango Hotel — and yes, it really is a hotel built around a tango theme. There were ten of us, miraculously five men and five women. Here’s a photo of us having a break, and a shot of the hotel interior.

tango grouptango hotelOur teacher was Fabian, I believe one of the owners of the hotel, and he was marvelous. Of course, anyone can dance with the teacher because he knows how to lead, but dancing with others who are just learning is more difficult, especially when you are just learning yourself. There was a Swiss woman called Claudia who immediately changed into proper tango shoes, and I thought to myself that she’d better know how to dance wearing those shoes. Well, she did. She had danced a lot in Switzerland and here as well, and it was a pleasure to watch her dance with the fellow who organized the event (also a lovely dancer). And she was also nice enough to help me get on the right bus after the lesson, which I very much appreciated.

This afternoon I go for my next private tango lesson, so let’s see if I’ve improved!

Yesterday I had breakfast with a lovely lady I met through InterNations. She is about my age and we share quite a few interests. She is from Albany, NY. She came to Buenos Aires first for a couple of holidays. Then she came for a couple of months and took a furnished apartment (sound familiar?). Then she took an unfurnished apartment and furnished it herself. Then, ten years ago, she bought an apartment and moved here permanently. I seem to have met quite a few people who came here for a visit and loved it so much they stayed on. Just saying…

Last night we went to a Chinese New Year celebration with a huge fireworks display in a park near Chinatown. Funny — watching a South American show in Buenos Aires, drinking caipirinha (Brazilian yummy cocktail) and wishing people Kung Hei Fatt Choy!

La BielaThe place where I have breakfast every morning is called La Biela, which means monkey wrench, or spanner for the Brits. Why? Because in the forties, this place was a well known hangout for famous racing drivers! There is a life size statue of one of them outside the door, and people get their photos taken with him all day long. Donna and I thought we might as well do the same.

 

 

 

 

 

Donna also took these photos inside my apartment and I thought you might like to see them.

ApartmentApartment2

 

 

 

 

 

 

I don’t think I’ve posted any pictures of Cecilia, so here she is with Donna outside our cabana at Los Esteros.

cecilia and donna

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OK, that’s it for now. I’m off to dance with Alejandro!

Floralis Generica

I remembered this amazing sculpture from my last visits, and was determined to sketch it this time.

FlowerFlower photoIt’s called Floralis Genérica, but most people just call it The Flower. It was given to the city by Argentine architect Eduardo Catalano in 2002. It is made of stainless steel over a skeleton of aluminum and reinforced concrete. At 23 metres high, it is very impressive.

Its petals open every morning at 8 am and close at dusk. So far I haven’t seen it closed, but I’ll have to make a point of doing that one day.

Here is my sketch, with a photo taken from the same vantage point to let you see what it actually looks like!

The Wrong Bus!

I guess it was inevitable. The bus system in Buenos Aires is chaotic and, to my North American eye, totally illogical. (I’m OK with that, because it’s all part of living in Buenos Aires.) I have a little book I carry round with me, containing my own notes about where to get which buses, and so far I’ve done all right.

Well OK, twice I got so frustrated wandering around looking for the bus stop I just took a taxi, but we won’t count that. Anyway, last night my luck ran out.

I was going to a social event of InterNations, a great international organization for expats around the world. I’ve gone to some of their events in Toronto and was looking forward to my first one here. I had an idea where the place was (a bar/restaurant) , and I knew which bus I was supposed to take. As usual, though, the problem was in finding where to get the bus. But I looked at the map and found where it was, and I realized it was in Palermo, where I have been several times and I know which bus to get. I figured I could take the 110, get off at my usual stop and walk up Honduras to Fitz Roy.

Well, maybe you’ve noticed this, but when you look at a map sometimes it’s hard to gauge distances, and that was definitely the case last night. I walked for miles — literally — and by the time I was even in the general area my feet were killing me and I was still not sure how far away it was. Fortunately, Palermo is a happening kind of place, so even though it was dark I didn’t feel uncomfortable because there were lots of restaurants and people about. But finally I gave up. I turned around and walked all the way back to get on my usual bus home. Disappointing, because I was looking forward to the event. Lesson learned: don’t guess at distances and make sure I get on the right bus!

On Saturday afternoon a sub-group of InterNations is going to a tango thing, so let’s hope I find that OK. I’ll post about it afterwards.

Getting to Know my ‘Hood

UBAThis is a sketch of the University of Buenos Aires Faculty of Engineering building. It’s a beautiful building and I’ve been wanting to sketch it for a while, but the trouble was I kept passing it when I was on the bus and I wasn’t quite sure where it was or how to get to it.

Yesterday, again on a bus, I caught a glimpse of another landmark up a side street and that positioned me. So today I walked up there — took me about half an hour — and sketched it. So this represents a small triumph in finding my way around my beautiful Buenos Aires.

Another thing happened today, a small thing but fun. I took part in a teleseminar, and you know how at the beginning they invite people to say their first name and where they are calling in from? Well I jumped in and happily said, “This is Helen in Buenos Aires” — how cool is that?!