Summer Has Definitely Arrived in Buenos Aires

Well, summer has definitely reached Buenos Aires! Temperatures are in the high twenties, and even thirty for a short time. I hadn’t expected that for a couple of weeks yet, but I’ll take it nevertheless!

I have settled into a work routine, so haven’t been out and about as much during the day. I do, however, continue my habit of taking an early morning walk, as I do in Toronto. I don’t stop for coffee here, but just walk. I’ve been exploring the area and have found new ways to get to familiar places, and new streets I hadn’t been down at all.

I haven’t taken many photographs, or even done any sketching. But one of these days I’ll get in the mood again and start — I’ve found sketching isn’t something you can force, or when I do it never turns out right.

palm-treeYesterday morning on my walk I passed this tall palm tree. I love palm trees, and there is quite a variety of them here. The fun thing about this one this morning was that there was a big flock of green parakeets flying around the top and having a full blown conversation! That put a big smile on my face. I took this photograph later in the day, so you can’t see them. Maybe I’ll be luckier next time.

 

 

 

iron-doorI’ve always been fascinated by doors. I don’t know if it’s the mystery of not knowing what’s behind them, but I always take note of them in my travels. I must say the most beautiful doors I’ve seen anywhere are in Madrid, but Buenos Aires comes a close second. At some point I may do a collection of photos and sketches just of doors, but in the meantime here’s one example. This lovely black wrought iron door isn’t on a special building. It’s just an ordinary apartment building near me. Isn’t it beautiful?

 

 

fernetOne thing I’ve started doing in the late afternoon is going out with my notebook and just writing my thoughts and observations on my daily life here. Sometimes I just find a shady seat in the park, and sometimes I find a cafe and have either coffee or a cool drink. On this day I had a very popular drink around here called Fernet, which is always drunk with Coca Cola. It took me a while to try it because I don’t like Coca Cola, but I found that it’s not so bad when it’s spiked with Fernet! Now “Fernet con Coca” is one of my favourite afternoon indulgences.

 

 

Last night I went with some friends to a huge tango party — in the street! I have to edit my videos, so I’ll tell you about that next time. Stay tuned!

Vacation over — well almost

Well it’s Saturday, November 26, and my vacation is officially over. Pauline left yesterday, and I will be back at work on Monday. Because I’ve been on vacation, I haven’t been very diligent about posting to the blog, but I will do better now.

The weather has been fantastic — until today! When we arrived it was not quite summer weather, but still warm and sunny. Then last weekend summer suddenly arrived, and it has been HOT and sunny ever since. Today, they were calling for rain and thunder, and we got it!

I’ve spent the morning at home, moving things around in my apartment. I didn’t like any of the knickknacks that were around the place, so I’ve bundled them all into an empty cupboard and put out the few little souvenirs I brought — something from Canada, Portugal, Scotland and Ecuador, as well as my picture of Felix and me. That makes it feel more like home, and I plan to add a few more small things as I go along. I like the apartment very much, although a coat of paint wouldn’t go amiss! (I won’t be doing that!)

Here are a few random photos taken over the past couple of weeks.

felicesfiestasIt’s hard to realize it’s only a month till Christmas when the sun is splitting the trees, but here’s a Happy Holidays message I came across the other day.

 

 

 

 

jacarandajacarandasketchThe jacaranda trees are beautiful this time of year, and they are lasting quite well. This one looked nice beside its green neighbours, but some of the downtown parks and plazas are even more lovely. This is just around the corner from my apartment — photo and my sketch of the same tree.

 

evita-family-mausoleumevita-plaqueIn the famous Recoleta cemetery, this is the family mausoleum of Eva Peron, as well as a couple of the plaques dedicated to her personally. It’s easy to find this among all the other, as it always has flowers.

I’ll leave it here for now. Tonight I’m going to a party with Cecilia and her sister. I’ve met these people before and they are all great fun, so I’m looking forward to it.

Hope you enjoy these pictures, and feel free to leave comments.

Last Post — for Now

Well, the great 2016 Argentina adventure is over. I came home last weekend, and I’m not happy! Actually, I probably feel even worse than I would have done, because I’m sick. Seems to be a recurring pattern for me in recent years, but I’ve come home with a nasty case of bronchitis and I’ve given myself the task this week of getting well. So I’ve done no work, and I’m only doing this because I want to round everything up for those who have been following me through the blog.

I finally stitched the videos together, and here they are.

Christmas in Cuenca.

This is how the good people of Cuenca celebrate Christmas as a community. Lots of fun.

Futbol!

Great souvenir of a night I’ll never forget.

Tango

My tango lessons with Alejandro were a highlight of my whole adventure. This little video was shot after I had my last lesson, and I must say I’ve watched it many times already because it instantly transports me back to this place I love so much.

Thank you again for following me through this blog. I hope I managed to convey just a fraction of how much I enjoyed my time in Argentina, and maybe even inspired some of you to put it on your travel list.

I miss you, my beautiful Buenos Aires. I’ll be back just as soon as I can.

Last Day!

Well, it’s ten o’clock at night, and I’ve just come back from dinner at my local restaurant. My packing is almost done, except for the things that can’t be packed until the morning.

I am feeling very sad, as you can imagine. I know I am going to miss Argentina terribly. A friend took me to breakfast the other morning and she asked me why I was going home. I said because my three months are up, and she said, “I know, but you don’t want to go home, so why don’t you just stay here?”

I’m not there, but I have to say it did give me pause.

IMG_3287Anyway, I had my last tango lesson yesterday and I did make a little video. Uploading from here is v-e-r-y slow, so I’m going to wait till I get back to Toronto. Stay tuned. In the meantime, here is a selfie with my lovely tango teacher, Alejandro.

 

 

 

YoniAnd while I’m about it, here is a selfie with Yoni, the young waiter at my local restaurant. Absolutely charming — as are most Argentine men I have met!

When I get home I will post the tango video and do one last post, and I’ll send an email to make sure everyone gets it. I have thoroughly enjoyed sharing my Argentina adventure with you all, and thanks to everyone who has written to say they enjoyed it too.

Hasta luego!

The final stretch

It’s Monday morning, and I’m just waiting to leave for a late breakfast with a friend. Sadly, I’m now into the final stretch, and it’s a time of “lasts”.

As I walked around the artisan market on Saturday, it was tempting to buy everything in sight because it was my last opportunity. I resisted, though, having already bought enough to start my own artisan market when I get home!

Yesterday I spent Easter with Cecilia and her family and I couldn’t have been in a better place. There were about fifteen of us, including her family and some friends, and it was a happy, noisy gathering. My Spanish got a workout, and I’m happy to report that I was able to follow most of the conversations even when I wasn’t part of them. Of course my own Spanish improved after copious quantities of Malbec!

I spent some time talking to an elderly lady called Maria, and I was a bit perturbed that I was having trouble understanding her Spanish. Then I found out she was Italian — and just as my Spanish is liberally salted with Portuguese, so was hers with Italian! That is so-oo Buenos Aires!

I’m not working this week, as I want to make the most of these last few days — I’m already plotting next year’s time! I will blog again at least once before I go.

Tomorrow I have my last tango lesson, and I’m hoping to have video — so stay tuned!

A Night at the Opera

The first time I came to Buenos Aires I took a tour through its famous Teatro Colon. Ever since then I’ve hoped to see a performance there, and tonight I got my wish. I went with a group of people from InterNations to see a production of Beatrix Cenci, which I had never heard of.

Screen Shot 2016-03-20 at 7.04.10 PMScreen Shot 2016-03-20 at 7.05.17 PMScreen Shot 2016-03-20 at 7.05.26 PMIt is truly a magnificent theatre, both inside and out as you can see from these photos (which I didn’t take, needless to say!)

The most amazing thing about Teatro Colon, though, is that it has no sound system as we know it. There is not a single microphone in the whole place. The accoustics are completely natural, coming from the way the theatre was built. The effect is wonderful. We are so used to hearing voices always electronically amplified, and this is so different. The voices all projected beautifully to all parts of the theatre. There was one scene where a cleaning cart was wheeled onto the stage, and you could actually hear the wheels turning.

The singing was excellent, and the staging beautiful.

Having said all that, the opera itself was the worst bloody rubbish I’ve seen in a long time. From the minute the curtains opened until they closed, I had no idea what was going on. Lots of slow walking and breast beating — and several totally naked men, which I never did quite figure out. Several times I just sat back and looked around, enjoying the theatre itself and ignoring what was going on onstage!

Culture is hugely subsidized in Argentina, and I paid only about Cdn.$14 for my seat. If only I could be here next month to hear Don Giovanni! I would like to go there again next time I’m here, but I’ll pay more attention to what I’m going to see first.

PalmSundayOn a different note, today was Palm Sunday. I was walking along Avenida Santa Fe, and several people were selling olive branches, rather than the palm branches I’m familiar with. I realized it was because there was a church nearby. By the time I reached it, it was clearly standing room only, and many people were standing outside on the steps, holding their olive branches and listening to the mass broadcast from inside. I joined them and listened for a while, but it was hard for me to follow.

Here is my little olive branch, now standing on my coffee table in a glass.

 

Futbol!!!

One thing I’ve wanted to do in Buenos Aires, but didn’t think I’d be able to, is go to a soccer match (or ‘futbol’) to see Boca Juniors at the famous La Bombonera stadium, known by fans as La Cancha. I’m thrilled that I was actually able to go last Monday night.

Daniela is a huge fan of Boca and goes regularly to the game by herself (brave woman!) I asked if I could go with her, and although she was willing there was a little problem. You see, only members can get into the stadium on game night — you can’t just buy a ticket. I think this was originally because of the trouble with opposing supporters, so now there are 70,000 people in the stadium, and all Boca fans!

Screen Shot 2016-03-17 at 10.22.26 AMCecilia found a source of a ticket online and did the deal. Well, it turned out not to be an actual ticket (for the above reason), but somebody’s member card which he was renting to me for the evening! Daniela pays 230 Pesos a month for four games; this cost me 750 Pesos for one game! Not a bad business to be in. Anyway, here is Mr. Zapata’s card, which I used to pass through two turnstiles without a problem. Viva Zapata!

Reaching that point was already an adventure, as the crowd was shoulder-to-shoulder right across the street. Daniela leaned forward and yelled in my ear, “Welcome to La Cancha!” Suddenly a shout went up saying a pregnant woman was coming through with a little boy, and we should let her through — only in Argentina!

Gotta get those banners up no matter what!

Gotta get those banners up no matter what!

Not sure where this guy thought he was going!

Not sure where this guy thought he was going!

I guess the kids see better when they're halfway up the fence!

I guess the kids see better when they’re halfway up the fence!

I’m currently working on the videos to put on a separate page, and I have quite a few I shot at the game, but here are some still shots to give you an idea.

When the Boca players came onto the field the place erupted — shouting and singing and pumping fists. That went on for the whole game, but when Boca scored in extra time to win the game, I can’t even begin to describe the noise and the atmosphere. It’s definitely something I’ll never forget.

DanielaAndMeHere we are — two rowdy fans having a great time!

 

 

 

 

 

PaperNewspaper report from next day — and I WAS THERE!!!

Submarines, International Women’s Day and Tango

IMG_3215IMG_3214

This week I went again to Cafe Tortoni. I know it’s a tourist trap, but it’s really so beautiful I can’t resist it. I love the old pictures on the walls, the art deco ceiling—and the ghosts of artists and writers of the past that seem to hover over everything.

But on this particular afternoon I had been walking around downtown and it was time for some afternoon coffee. I was near Tortoni, so I decided to try a specialty they have made famous. It’s called a submarino.

IMG_3217

IMG_3218

IMG_3219

 

 

 

 

 

 

They bring you a cup of hot milk, accompanied by a small submarine-shaped chocolate bar. You drop it into the cup and submerge it in the milk, and then you stir it till it melts. Now that’s how to make hot chocolate!

International Women’s Day

When I left the cafe after my usual breakfast, after saying goodbye as usual, the waiter said to me Feliz Dia, or Happy Day. I thought this must be some variation on Have a Nice Day. But no, it turned out it was International Women’s Day, and I found out they take it quite seriously here.

IMG_3210Screen Shot 2016-03-13 at 9.58.40 AMCecilia called me later in the morning and said she was going out to lunch with Macarena and Daniela to celebrate El Dia de la Mujer, and invited me to join them. We went to a place called Victoria, about half an hour away from Cecilia’s home, and had lunch in a restaurant overlooking a lovely little marina full of boats.

I went for my Spanish lesson that night, and the place is downtown. At one point we could hardly hear ourselves talk, and the teacher explained that this was the main street leading to Plaza de Mayo, and these were people parading up there to celebrate the day, and also to protest injustices against women worldwide.

Tango!

Last night (Saturday) Cecilia and I went to a tango show at the same place we always go, Taconeando. It’s a small place with an intimate show and atmosphere, which I prefer to the big spectacles, and the music and dancing were lovely as always.

In this particular place, at the end of the show the dancers come out into the audience and invite people to dance. I didn’t think we’d be asked, as we were quite far back and not next to the stage as before, but I think Cecilia engineered it! Anyway, one of the dancers invited me up onto the cabaret floor to dance. There were only two couples in the show, so that meant only four couples now — including this handsome man and me — actually on stage, under the lights, with an audience!

And I thoroughly enjoyed it! Cecilia took pictures, but we were so far back you couldn’t really see it was me. But that doesn’t matter, because I don’t need a photo to remind me of such a lovely experience.

And now I’m getting ready to go to San Telmo for the Sunday artisan market, and maybe some sketching.

 

Downtown, Rosedal and San Telmo

I’ve had a lovely weekend and beginning of the week.

Downtown

On Saturday, I went back to visit the Plaza de Mayo again, as there are other interesting buildings besides the Pink House.

IMG_3121This sketch is of the outside of the Catedral Metropolitana. I don’t actually care much for the outside, as to me it doesn’t look like a church at all, much less a cathedral, but I thought it was worth drawing anyway.

 

 

IMG_3095The inside is much more impressive, although like many major Catholic churches I found it to be a bit over the top. This was the “parish church” of the Cardinal Archbishop of Buenos Aires, before he moved to Rome and became Pope Francis!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Naval Building doorEver since the first time I came to Buenos Aires, I’ve been fascinated by the magnificent door of the Naval Building. I’ve wanted to sketch it, but the problem was always finding a place to sit to do it, as it is at a major intersection downtown. I finally got lucky and found the perfect table at a cafe kitty corner from the building, so I had lunch and did the sketch at the same time! I was worried my sketching skills would not do the door justice, and I was correct. But I hope it at least gives an impression of what it looks like.

Once again, I was sitting right in the blazing sun and I was reduced to a greasy spot by the time I was done, but I think it was worth it. And the glass of white wine helped.

The Rosedal

Yesterday afternoon, Sunday, Cecilia took me to the Rosedal, which means rose garden. I had always heard it was lovely, but didn’t pay much attention because frankly I wasn’t really that interested in seeing a rose garden. But it turned out it is much more than that. It is a very large park with beautiful palm trees, which I love, a big lake with paddle boats, swans and geese, some beautiful gazebos where you can sit in the very welcome shade — oh yes, and a rose garden.

It was the last day of summer holidays before the schools go back, so it was quite busy, but lovely nonetheless. Here are some photos.

Screen Shot 2016-02-29 at 10.35.58 PMScreen Shot 2016-02-29 at 10.36.12 PM

Screen Shot 2016-02-29 at 10.55.00 PMThis is the sketch I did from inside one of the gazebos, while Cecilia read the paper.

We did go on the paddle boats. If I had known about that, I wouldn’t have worn a short skirt!

 

 

San Telmo

This afternoon I visited San Telmo, one of the oldest barrios in the city. It is known for its association with tango as well as all the artists that go there to paint the old buildings and cobblestone streets. To tell the truth, I prefer it at night when the lights are shining on the streets and there is lots of night life.

Screen Shot 2016-02-29 at 10.58.45 PMI found the Plaza Dorrego and sat at the outdoor cafe having a Campari while I did this sketch.

Once again there was one of these beautiful big trees with the pink blossoms which I love. I also liked the colourful blue umbrellas.

I will go back again one Sunday, when the street market gives it more life.

Work

People have been asking if I’m getting on with my work, and I’m happy to say I am, even though some days it’s tempting just to go out and play in the sunshine. I’m not as far forward with my novel as I had hoped, but I still have more than four weeks to catch up so I still hope to meet my goal of having it ready to go to the editor when I get back to Toronto. Fingers crossed!

Palacio Barolo

Today I visited a place I’ve been meaning to see for weeks, Palacio Barolo. As the name suggests, it is one of the many ‘palaces’ from times past that now survive in Buenos Aires in other forms. Some are office buildings, others private residences still and yet others condo buildings. Funnily enough, Palacio Barolo was built in the 1930s as an office building and has never been anything else.

It’s a fascinating place. The original owner and builder was one Luis Barolo, an Italian immigrant who had arrived in Argentina in 1890 and had made a fortune in knitted fabrics. He commissioned an Italian architect, Mario Palanti, to design the building. But there are two interesting facts that influenced the design.

First, Barolo was fascinated by Dante’s Divine Comedy. The building riffs off this work in the number of floors, the number of balconies, and a whole lot of arithmetic that frankly went over my head, but it all ties in with The Divine Comedy.

Second, both Barolo and Palanti were Freemasons, and the building is rife with Masonic symbolism.

IMG_3090The young woman who showed us around, Veronica, was very knowledgeable and interesting. Someone asked her why she dressed as she did, and she explained that this was how the mostly male office workers of the 1930s would have dressed. She looked very cute I must say.

IMG_3085She finished the tour with a visit to an office typical of the time of the building and I couldn’t resist having my photo taken at the desk, although it’s doubtful a woman would ever have sat there!

Screen Shot 2016-02-25 at 10.04.46 PMIMG_3079This is an official photo of the outside of the building. And this is what you see from one of those little round balconies w-a-a-y up at the top of the tower!

After visiting “hell” and “purgatory” by elevator, we then walked up a v-e-r-y narrow spiral staircase to “paradise” at the second top level of balconies, and then on to the lighthouse at the top. It was so blazing hot up there that some of us commented it felt more like hell than paradise!

An identical building was also built in Montevideo, Uruguay, and the original idea was that the two lighthouses would flash directly at each other and meet in the middle of the river. It doesn’t seem to have occurred to anyone that Buenos Aires and Montevideo are not opposite each other across the river — so this plan never materialized. Ah yes, South America — you have to love it!

Screen Shot 2016-02-25 at 10.15.49 PMI sat on the sidewalk and sketched the building from the outside. The crick in my neck may take weeks to go away. The image in the corner is the souvenir stamp Veronica gave us at the end of the tour. All in all, it was a fun outing.

 

I was going to my Spanish lesson from there, but had an hour or so to kill. So I sat at a sidewalk cafe, drinking a lovely, cool Campari and orange juice, and thinking how happy I am to be in Buenos Aires.